Synopsis: She’s a Killer Queen
Dynamite with a laser beam
Guaranteed to blow your mind
Top Notes: Lychee, Pomelo, Mate
Middle Notes: Lily, Red Rose, Iris
Base Notes: Amber, Labdanum, Oud
Amouroud is the niche “
loveoud child” of The Perfumer’s Workshop (the ones who gave us the wonderful Tea Rose). As they have been dealing with perfumes and roses since the ’70s, I bought Midnight Rose expecting nothing short of a rose-taboulos experience.
First off, the name is not really fitting, as the perfume has no trace of any nocturnal or even remotely shadowy elements. It is a sweet, fruity rose that starts off innocently, slightly effervescent (like the stinging-sweet sensation of litchi-fruity champagne). The top notes remind me of the aesthetics of Sophia Copolla’s movies – classic but with a post-modern touch, using hues of opulent pastel (just imagine the smell of glow-in-the-dark-neon-pastel if you can :D). Kind of like Marie-Antoinette in the Kirsten Dunst version, wearing too much blush, laughing too hard, grabbing your hand and swirling you into a maze made of rose bushes and turrets of macaroons and Turkish delights during a blizzard of powder sugar snow.
In the middle notes, the perfume moves towards the east (but a postcard version of the Middle-East, filtered through the rosy glasses of a tourist. It has an accessible, slightly off and repetitive feel – just imagine a Bill Murray filming the tenth double for an electronic hookah commercial. It’s the classic oriental viscous recipe, but it’s well done – the jammy rose wine turns into thick liqueur-attar,a gourmand rounded amber follows, belly-dancing us into the base, accompanied by sticky notes of labdanum and finally dies off in a poof of sweet dusty wood smoke.
If you like thick jammy gourmands – you’ll love it. If you want innovation, drama, suspense and low blood sugar – look elsewhere. Ah, and one more thing: the oud is just in name, I feel no trace of it.
Still, if you have the munchies for jammy rose, this will surely hit the spot.